What it's like to be a plus size model during Fashion Week | Benny London's story | Interview
August 1, 2023 • • Benny London
Here at BRIDGE, we sat down with plus-size model, Benny London, who opens up about battling an industry moulded to straight-size models and finding his place among critics. From being discovered in a shopping centre to walking in Paris Men's Fashion Week, Benny delves into his experiences...
When and how did you start your modelling career?
Benny: I was around 18/19, shopping in Foot Asylum when a lady walked up to me and asked if I wanted to be a model. I thought she was joking but she explained that ‘plus size’ was a new thing and gave me her card. From there, I went to the office where there was a contract ready to be signed.
Did it take you a while to come around to the idea of modelling?
Benny: It was a surprise, I was working at Three at the time, but it was a surprise in the sense of the agency that approached me. The guys they represented were very sporty and looked like they were straight from 'Love Island', the opposite of what I present to the world. But in terms of being a model, growing up in fashion all my life, I remember being taken to Bicester Village by my mum when I was younger and getting to choose what I wanted. Since then, I have always loved fashion. Although I always thought I would be an actor as acting was really my passion.
Did it take you a while to come around to the idea of modelling?
Benny: It was a surprise, I was working at Three at the time, but it was a surprise in the sense of the agency that approached me. The guys they represented were very sporty and looked like they were straight from 'Love Island', the opposite of what I present to the world. But in terms of being a model, growing up in fashion all my life, I remember being taken to Bicester Village by my mum when I was younger and getting to choose what I wanted. Since then, I have always loved fashion. Although I always thought I would be an actor as acting was really my passion.
Tell us about your runway debut.
Benny: It's crazy because it's not even about me, the debut, even though it was my debut. As much as I had hoped and wished for it when I finally did it, it didn't feel like I did it just for me. It felt like I did it for everyone else, we were finally represented in Paris. I was full of emotions. That whole process of me walking from the beginning - from the makeup, the hair, the rehearsals, the final rehearsal, and then finally actually walking, it was just all a blur, I didn't take it all in. It just felt like a job I had to do.
Were you the only plus-size model at the castings?
Benny: Yes, I had six castings for Paris Fashion Week, and I was the only plus-size model surrounded by straight models with six packs, which was overwhelming, but not at the show because I deserved to be there.
After the casting, how did you find out you had booked a show?
Benny: I'm very thankful for the 3.PARADIS designer, Emeric Tchatchoua. I remember when I went to the casting he said we should just try some things on me. Normally as a model, when they say that it means they like you. Otherwise, you do your walk, and you leave. Then, I got called for a fitting, which was interesting because I got to see how they work, how they plan, and how they make everyone look. It was so cutthroat. I sat there and witnessed a model getting crossed out of being confirmed and it was scary, I thought that could be me.
Later that night I got the confirmation. When I got that confirmation message, I had a shot of tequila. It was just a long time waiting. I've been in the industry for so long. Finally seeing that happen gave me the hope that I needed.
What was the energy like in the 3Paradis show?
Benny: It felt like electricity running through my body. When I first walked out I knew nobody was expecting to see a plus-sized model. Everyone’s phones come out and people made noise. I didn’t know if it was good noise or bad noise, I just heard noise. I was internally crying because it was such a monumental moment for me. There was a lot going on inside me, but then there was also this power, this force that came out of nowhere, so when I was walking, I was really marching.
During the show, did you feel you were treated the same as the other models?
Benny: Definitely, I was treated the same. I'm thankful because the models that I walked with have seen plus size models, they've worked with plus size models, and they're kind of familiar with it. So, I was definitely treated the same.
Have you had any unpleasant experiences during your time in the industry?
Benny: It's only happened to me once, and that was my first time in Milan when I went there for castings. I remember all my confidence just went out of the window. I started shaking and fidgeting with my hands. But I said to myself, I'll never allow myself to feel like that again. If I ever feel disrespected, I will just walk out. And, also, when I go into castings and they don't have my size, that's just annoying. It’s disrespectful.
Why do you think showing body inclusivity on the runway is important?
Benny: It's so important, because everyone buys clothes, everyone with different sizes. Not being represented on the runway discourages me from buying from that brand, rather than the opposite.
Do you think the industry has progressed in showing body inclusivity?
Benny: Yes, definitely. New York was the start for us, but worldwide massively too. Even with the diversity in ethnicity in the plus-size industry, I've started to see a lot more Caucasians, Asians, and Mediterranean people, so it's growing in terms of all-around diversity, size, and inclusion. Germany, Sweden and Spain, they’re quite good. Germany especially, they've been the biggest dominating market for plus-size models in Europe. Milan and Paris did well this season, they have changed drastically compared to how Paris used to be.
Do you think designers are following trends when it comes to inclusivity?
Benny: You know, I think they are being quite natural. Some fast fashion brands have put in the effort to transform plus-size models and make them look super stylish and super attractive. If fast fashion can do it, then surely high-end designers can too.
Featuring plus-size models is almost used as a marketing ploy to get some businesses off the ground. And when they've become an established business, they're going straight back to straight-size models.
But that is the reason why I'm very cautious about brands I work with now. Because before it was about the money, but now I really do want to see what the brands' intentions are because you're not just going to use me as publicity and then not actually implement diversity throughout the brand. It's quite upsetting when you see things like that.
Can you recall any brands that are showcasing diversity on the runway?
Benny: Savage Fenty, 100%, they’re killing it. Michael Kors, Fendi, Versace. Versace had four plus-size girls on the runway, one time, and that was major! What I love about them is the girls that they chose. Obviously, 3 Paradis. They put me there, so I've got to name-drop them ha-ha.
Do you think that plus-size modelling has progressed more for women than for men?
Benny: Unfortunately, yes. I feel like nobody's been giving us an opportunity. I feel that everyone's waiting for a brand like Louis Vuitton or Prada. If a plus-size boy walks for Louis Vuitton or Prada next season, everyone's going to have a plus-size boy in their show. The same happened with Precious Lee, once she did the Versace show, she was requested for every other brand. After that, they made clothes to fit her. It's just a matter of time.
I was quite disappointed with Pharrell. He had so many dynamics in terms of heights, he had influencers there, he had stylists, and he had photographers walking the show. He did that, and it was very hip-hop culture, which I love. He had all his friends coming to support him.
But I feel that as Pharrell stepped in as the new creative director of Louis Vuitton, he could have really made that one statement by including plus-size male models.
Why do you think designers are holding back from booking plus-size models in their shows?
Benny: They’re waiting to be presented with a plus-size boy. The issue is that not everyone can walk. So, I feel like once they see that, okay, this guy looks amazing when he walks and he puts the clothes on, they're going to be designing for him. Hopefully, it's me. I'm happy for anyone to have that position because once I see a plus-size model do it, it just opens doors for all the other plus-size boys. It’s never really about just ourselves. It's about us all. It's about us all wanting to push through that door.
What's your runway aspiration?
Benny: The Godfather of my dream is definitely Gucci. There’s also Jacquemus, Mugler and Prada.
Any final words?
Benny: I just want people to show some grace. Be nice to us when we come into settings because it's hard for a plus-sized person to showcase their body and to be used as a canvas. So, paint on us delicately.